In January during the time of the Pitti Uomo in Florence visitors had the chance to get deeper insides about womenswear embroidery and how to train this to further generations. Now, anyone who has seen these intensely treated dresses or formal outfits might have wondered if all that had been done by hand. The answer is No, we found some very interesting and for us quite unknown sewing machines that were able to do special stitching and applications of fabric and of leather as well. The organisation that showed all is called “my Vintage academy and had a big booth right in the City centre of Florence.

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The first item of course that we observed from far was a black dress full of feathers and tone in tone pearls. Coming nearer it went even more spectacular and right behind the skirt a woman showed the way how to attach these feathers by first sorting them, then bundle and attach them in endless stitching.

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Besides the Dress making there were many women who demonstrated hand made features. Very impressive were the ones with feathers on small leather goods.

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What also impressed us was the attachment of pearls to a thin white fabric. This woman didn’t get nervous regardless to the many visitors looking at her, taking pictures like me or discussing how and where to include this artwork in their own collections.

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Another station explained the way of attaching small fabric parts with a machine to leather materials. I saw a sewing machine which I had never seen before. The upper threat moved around the needle and so drilled a kind of rope on top of the fabric while attaching it to the basic leather material.

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I also recorded the machine while working. It’s a larger video but it’s worth to watch because of the uncommon functionality.

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Here’s another video of their impressive workshops at the city of Florence

After all I must say that as much as I am addicted to men’s clothing this handcrafted artwork impressed me very much and I am happy to work for a company who does both, men’s and women’s clothing. That gives me the opportunity to visit our “dress team” from time to time and “spy” a bit around their techniques and abilities.

stay tuned

br

Josch

 

iuYou know that moment – you have visited a company or an institution and just before leaving you receive a nice present, something to remember. Sometimes its a broschure, sometimes a nice gift from the companies’ product range. Sometimes you like it and use it, quite often you leave it in the Hotel room or put it in the bin later. During the recent visit of our IACDE group at Dürkopp-Adler in Bielefeld we’ve got a very nice present and the uncommon usage fascinated me, so I decided to write an article about it.

When it comes to Shears or Scissors, all tailors and cutters, pattern designers and technical engineers are very picky. Many of them still have or even use their first ones they have started with when entering this business. Of course also my personal one, specially made for left handed tailors, is still in use, although at home, but I love it.

So back to the “Swissors”, that’s how they name it. The official statement about the special scissor is as such:

Wenger SWISSORS®, invented by KYON founder Slobodan Tepic, are high tech cutting scissors, specifically designed for difficult materials and long wear. SWISSORS unique functionality has won acclaim and design competition awards in both Switzerland and Japan. The award-winning tool is manufactured by Wenger Cutlery Works SA, manufacturers of the Genuine Swiss Army Knife.

4 Advantages:

  • Manual effort is reduced by 50% to 70% (compared to ordinary scissors). Cutting force is distributed evenly by 4 needle pin bearings along the full length of the blades.
  • Lower blade remains horizontal, providing greater cutting precision.
  • Titanium nitride (TiN) coated blades are interchangeable: no need for sharpening, cut effortlessy through the most difficult materials. Blades available in standard and micro-serrated.
  • Special adjusting screw allows cutting force to be adapted to the thickness of the material.

Applications:

SWISSORS have achieved wide popularity among interior decorators and textile workers, including cutting the leather for seats in Audi automobiles. The micro-serrated blades are recommended for cutting both extremely delicate fabrics and the toughest materials, e.g. Kevlar®.
– paper
– cardboard up to 1000 g/m²
– presspan
– cables
– straps/belts
– silk
– leather
– jeans fabric
– synthetic fur
– thread
– fabrics
– plastic sheeting
– metal sheeting
– foam, expanded materials
– synthetic materials
– fibreglass cloth
– nylon
– Kevlar®
– Nomex®
(Kevlar” and Nomex” are registered trademarks of DuPont de Nemours)

Care & Use:

  • Occasionally place a drop of oil in the races of the needle bearings and in the adjusting screw.
  • Carefully wipe blades to remove any small cutting remnants.
  • Replace the interchangeable blades when cutting performance diminishes.

Caution:

  • Avoid touching the cutting edges of the blades: they are extremely sharp and can cause serious injury!
  • Replace blades by holding them carefully by the sides (NEVER by the cutting edge!)

 

After reading this you may ask yourself: Truth or just storytelling ? Here’s my experience with the Swissor:

normal cutting of fabric : a bit of a new feeling because of the very smooth cutting without any pressure and the fact that the lower blade remains on the table and only the upper one moves up and down

cutting of lining: extremely easy, precise and sharp without any movement of the two layers

cutting of felt, canvas, interlining: no problem as well, you must rather be patient not to cut too fast or too far

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After all – should we buy this innovative item and forget our beloved ones or should we forget this freaky thing that wants to compete with our nicely polished shears from our treasury? Well its up to our willingness and openness to try new things and methods. For sure the Swissors are not made for hard core traditionalists, you should be open minded  for new feelings and views of cutting. While operating it looks quite unfamiliar but from my point of view it is absolutely worth to try.

stay tuned and best regards

Josch

Modular design – ease your work !