Pattern design analyst
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Thanks for your reply!
Btw, in the last question I was referring to the entire garment, not just the sleeve, but I guess the same answer applies.
sure, especially the body needs more fullness when it comes to materials like heavier Cotton. Wool and Wool Blends are more flexible and tend to feel more comfortable than Cotton and Linen, int the waist and in the upper body, mostly in the upper back part.
Well, since we’re on the subject of shoulders:
I seem to be having more trouble with natural sleeve/shoulder seams than with wider, roped sleeve heads.
How to cut a clean sleeve with a natural or shirt-type sleeve heads?
How much ease can you cut into the sleeve head before it starts to collapse.
How does the cap height relate to the width of the sleeve on this type of sleeves, opposed to rope style sleeves.
Most resources on this topic that I have seen, talk mostly about roped sleeve heads, but it seams that the shape and ease is much more critical on “flat” shoulder seams?
I know Jeffery Diduch has a few excellent posts on his blog about the subject but there’s still so much to learn…
But that’s a lot to ask 🙂 Another suggestion, probably more feasible:
Grading for cloth weight.
How, and to which extent would you grade a pattern to account for cloth weight differences?
eg: my last project was a suit made from 18oz tweed, based on the same pattern that I used for several other (lighter weight) cloths. Even though I allowed a couple of millimeters on most seams, I was still very surprised how tight it was at first fitting.
How do RTW factories deal with this?
a lot of topics for one post 🙂
Thanks for the inspiration, I can prepare some further posts on that.
For now as a quick answer:
I totally agree that doing a proper natural shoulder is a kind of masterpiece. Not only do you have to care about the pattern and the trims but also about the making. All components have to be cleverly balanced. Starting with the pattern my learning is that it is better to strip a natural shoulder and reduce the hight than starting from scratch. I would recommend to reduce the front and back panel and to reduce the fullness of the sleeves to a minimum. I have had good experience by experiencing the sleeve head hight right on the body or a fit form and then build the pattern accordingly.
With regards to the shoulderpad you should have a look at my part 3 in the trim section. It must be soft, but urgently supportive because you don’t have the Cotton or Foam to do that job. So the canvas in the pad is very important.
More on that in the future – I promise 🙂
For the last question:
I have worked also for companies who had “summer” and “winter” sleeves meaning with more and less fullness. Today my impression is that we have so light fabrics and even the heavier ones are still light that the only differentiation I can immagine is the difference between Cotton and Wool. For the others I don’t think it is nessessary, except for very tight and slim fits. My impression though is that nobody really cares about that in the market. When in doubt, customers tend to buy bigger sizes and solve the problem their way…
Looking forward to your future posts…
Pleasure – if you have some particuar questions feel free to adress them. I will try to do my best 🙂
Jeffrey Diduch of the Made by Hand blog recommended you.
I am looking forward to see the content 😉
acutally I am learning to swim by falling into the water and are even surprised that I have already readers !
How did you find me ?
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ll find you anywhere 🙂
Just kidding, Thanks to facebook 🙂 I saw what you have written there and I am wondering how shoulderpads are created manually.
I hope you continue blogging.
Actually I do and when its finishdd I would love to get some serious feedback from you and maybe some of your students to improve the Blog
Some interesting things may happen 🙂
What do you mean ?
I was thinking about opening a “manswear studio”. I will check budget options abaut inviting international guests. Would you be interested in coming for 3 days maybe?
We’ll see . Sounds interesting anyway. Maybe next time when I am in Izmir we can discuss more about that. For now I try to finish the article 🙂
Looking forward to it 🙂
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