Archives For techncial trims

 

iuYou know that moment – you have visited a company or an institution and just before leaving you receive a nice present, something to remember. Sometimes its a broschure, sometimes a nice gift from the companies’ product range. Sometimes you like it and use it, quite often you leave it in the Hotel room or put it in the bin later. During the recent visit of our IACDE group at Dürkopp-Adler in Bielefeld we’ve got a very nice present and the uncommon usage fascinated me, so I decided to write an article about it.

When it comes to Shears or Scissors, all tailors and cutters, pattern designers and technical engineers are very picky. Many of them still have or even use their first ones they have started with when entering this business. Of course also my personal one, specially made for left handed tailors, is still in use, although at home, but I love it.

So back to the “Swissors”, that’s how they name it. The official statement about the special scissor is as such:

Wenger SWISSORS®, invented by KYON founder Slobodan Tepic, are high tech cutting scissors, specifically designed for difficult materials and long wear. SWISSORS unique functionality has won acclaim and design competition awards in both Switzerland and Japan. The award-winning tool is manufactured by Wenger Cutlery Works SA, manufacturers of the Genuine Swiss Army Knife.

4 Advantages:

  • Manual effort is reduced by 50% to 70% (compared to ordinary scissors). Cutting force is distributed evenly by 4 needle pin bearings along the full length of the blades.
  • Lower blade remains horizontal, providing greater cutting precision.
  • Titanium nitride (TiN) coated blades are interchangeable: no need for sharpening, cut effortlessy through the most difficult materials. Blades available in standard and micro-serrated.
  • Special adjusting screw allows cutting force to be adapted to the thickness of the material.

Applications:

SWISSORS have achieved wide popularity among interior decorators and textile workers, including cutting the leather for seats in Audi automobiles. The micro-serrated blades are recommended for cutting both extremely delicate fabrics and the toughest materials, e.g. Kevlar®.
– paper
– cardboard up to 1000 g/m²
– presspan
– cables
– straps/belts
– silk
– leather
– jeans fabric
– synthetic fur
– thread
– fabrics
– plastic sheeting
– metal sheeting
– foam, expanded materials
– synthetic materials
– fibreglass cloth
– nylon
– Kevlar®
– Nomex®
(Kevlar” and Nomex” are registered trademarks of DuPont de Nemours)

Care & Use:

  • Occasionally place a drop of oil in the races of the needle bearings and in the adjusting screw.
  • Carefully wipe blades to remove any small cutting remnants.
  • Replace the interchangeable blades when cutting performance diminishes.

Caution:

  • Avoid touching the cutting edges of the blades: they are extremely sharp and can cause serious injury!
  • Replace blades by holding them carefully by the sides (NEVER by the cutting edge!)

 

After reading this you may ask yourself: Truth or just storytelling ? Here’s my experience with the Swissor:

normal cutting of fabric : a bit of a new feeling because of the very smooth cutting without any pressure and the fact that the lower blade remains on the table and only the upper one moves up and down

cutting of lining: extremely easy, precise and sharp without any movement of the two layers

cutting of felt, canvas, interlining: no problem as well, you must rather be patient not to cut too fast or too far

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After all – should we buy this innovative item and forget our beloved ones or should we forget this freaky thing that wants to compete with our nicely polished shears from our treasury? Well its up to our willingness and openness to try new things and methods. For sure the Swissors are not made for hard core traditionalists, you should be open minded  for new feelings and views of cutting. While operating it looks quite unfamiliar but from my point of view it is absolutely worth to try.

stay tuned and best regards

Josch

Yes Fashion is about looking into the future, but for understanding fashion technically it is worth to browse the web and look for former collections. As my first article was about the development of shoulder pads I would like to add on that and give some examples to better understand the differences of the three main shoulder fit types – natural, regular and pagode.

These  suit examples here are about the natural shoulder. What I like very much is, that the jackets still look very correct and formal, although the construction of the Chestpiece and shoulder is very light. I would bet that the shoulderpad will be made of very thin layers of felt and canvas and rather no cotton inside. If I get the chance to open one, I will prove that.

Enjoy the styles, but this time concentrate on the the suit shoulders.   Spring/Summer 2014.

technical trims – Shoulderpads