In part 1 we have learned about the relashionship of shell fabric pattern and the design of the according shoulder pad.
In Part 2 we decide for the various components.
We start with the Cover – the part that touches the fabric and that has various functions. The material can vary from rather textile to rather technical appeal and it has lot to do with pricing and the resilience you want to achieve. In any case it should be soft enough not to be visible through the outer fabric, especially in the back part on the upper shoulder. This is sometimes caused by the cutted edges – when the material is too thick, chances are high that it will be visible.
Next is the inner part. Here it depends how you want to later assemble the jacket. If you do it in an industrial way, the second layer is a thinner, but still resiliant material which is added to the top cover in a distance of app. 4 – 4.5 cm from the Armhole.
Next in place is the padding – here we have a lot of variances. I personally prefer to add padding made of Cotton but there are other ways as well, for example cutted foam. The Cotton tends to remain a bit more flexible, especially after dry cleaning and is either cut or stapled out of a thick mat and attached in several layers.
The last layer is again made of another material, in my case it is a light Canvas. This supports the shoulder not to bow down at the outer shoulder line and keep the complete shoulder better in place. Therefore the grainline is in vertical mode, so the animal hair can be horizontal as in the picture. But I can truly say that you can discuss a week with other experts about the grainline and padding and such, so at the end you have to prototype here to gain your own experience.
Here are some more pictures of the different stages of the assembling
In this last picture you can also recognise the assembling sewing lines and the marks for the glue points which you also need when you produce your jacket in a so called “fused line manufacturing”. Otherwise, if you wish to attach the shoulderpads manually or with a basting machine, you can skim that part.
I found some videos for two operations of the above mentioned details on the web and you can have a brief look at them by clicking onto the marks in the picture when being redirected.
So far so good until here – in the next parts I will give some more examples of different shoulderpads and different combinations -> Part 3 (to be continued soon…)